Tuesday, July 29, 2003

Klatch (CLOSED 4/09)

With great fanfare, my afternoon sweets craving announced its arrival. For the life of me, I could not decide whether I wanted a coconut doughnut from the Doughnut Plant or an orange brioche from the Balthazar Bakery. I calculated the walking distance to both places; a more difficult calculation was the relative strength of each desire. Fortunately, due to the recent opening of Klatch, I didn't need to make a choice! Only four months old, this adorable little coffee bar offers the best of both worlds: a selection of the Doughnut Plant's superlative handmade doughnuts and Balthazar's croissants, cookies and scones. I recommend accompanying all of this with a mug of Klatch's wonderful dark roast coffee, which is made with Porto Rico Importing Co. beans.

Klatch: 9-11 Maiden Lane, (212) 227-7276.
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Monday, July 28, 2003

National Eel Day

The Japanese holiday which honors the eel fell on July 26 this year. The rich, tasty fish is supposed to revitalize you during the hot summer. For those of you who forgot to celebrate on Saturday, some Japanese restaurants in NYC are offering a special eel lunch today. Chikubu (CLOSED as of 4/07) will serve its annual $4.50 unagi lunch special (you may have to wait in line). Ise is offering a delicious double portion of eel over rice; finish one eel and a layer of rice only to discover another eel underneath!

Chikubu: 12 E. 44th St., (212) 818-0715. Ise: 56 Pine St., (212) 785-7660.
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Tuesday, July 22, 2003

Nana

Monday is a dark day for sushi lovers in Park Slope. Blue Ribbon Sushi is closed, the door that leads to Gingko Leaf's Japanese garden paradise is locked (Closed as of 2004), and Geido's sushi bar is empty of rollicking patrons sharing bottles of Kirin. Last night, my friend and I wandered down 7th Avenue, mournfully listing options that were unavailable to us.

In frustration, my friend suggested getting Italian food. At that moment, a light went on in my head in the shape of the neon sign at Nana on 5th Avenue. I vaguely remembered appreciating the grilled salmon at this stylish pan-Asian, but I'd always satisfied my sushi cravings elsewhere. However, since there is nothing so uncomfortable as an unsatisfied longing for tuna sashimi, we decided to give Nana a try.

The yellowtail ceviche appetizer was a good omen: a colorful confetti of julienned red onions, peppers and carrots and small pieces of fish in a light soy vinaigrette. Well-salted edamame soon followed, and then it was time for the sashimi! My platter was a generous assortment of about 20 pieces of octopus, yellowtail, tuna, salmon, snapper, and scallop. I breathed a sigh of relief as the sushi beast was (temporarily) kept at bay.

Nana: 155 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-3749.
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Monday, July 21, 2003

Raw New York

Every so often, interesting requests randomly appear in the SalliVates.com mailbox. Recently, I've been asked to locate "yogurt pucks", to procure a list of sea salt distributors, and to go on a date. Although I haven't been able to fulfill these particular requests, I am about to gladden the heart of a California reader. Her E-mail of last week was so intriguing that I felt compelled to rise to her challenge:
"Dear Salli,

I am a raw-food vegan who will be visiting NYC for the first time. I eat fruits, nuts, vegetables and sprouted grains, but no meats, dairy products or foods heated above 118 degrees. Are there any places I can eat?"
After verifying that the writer was serious (how does one live without chocolate and fondue?), I set off on a mission to see if she could find nourishment in New York.

First, I walked over to Eat Raw, a store which trumpets its cause right in the name. In addition to offering natural skin care products, Eat Raw sells crackers, cookies, nut butters, dried fruit and walnut-tahini "truffles". Unfortunately, I found the onion "Essene" bread and apple crunch bars very difficult to chew. I had better luck with the "Raweos", which tasted more like macaroons than Oreos (and that's a good thing).

Next, I took the F train to the East Village and strode into Live Live, where the proprietor was astonishingly thin! Looking at him, I immediately craved a huge plate of fettucini alfredo, but I squelched the urge (I was on a mission, remember) and bought a $6 package of "mac & cheese" instead. This concoction was a bar of macadamia nuts, kale, and red pepper; disturbingly, it was somewhat reminiscent of macaroni and cheese. I was reminded of astronaut food, and indeed, one of the brands offered at Live Live is "Moon Foods".

Next door to Live Live is NYC's only raw foods chain: Quintessence. With three locations, Quintessence has been detoxifying New Yorkers since 1999. Their philosophy is: "Treat your body like a temple and it will be heaven again." (Personally, I find it pretty easy to feel heavenly; I just pop a Knipschildt truffle into my mouth.)

I invited an adventurous companion to Quintessence for a raw foods adventure. We began our meal with the vegetable chowder, a delicious green puree thickened with nuts. The cold soup was perfect for the summertime. We were then to find that "raw" doesn't necessarily mean "quick"; our stomachs growled as we waited for our entrees. Our waitress patiently explained that my squash "spaghetti" was in the dehydrator. When it finally arrived, the "spaghetti" al pesto was interspersed with tasty marinated mushrooms and sundried tomatoes, but I couldn't get past the crunchy vegetal texture of the "pasta". My companion ordered the "round-the-world" platter: a sampling of hummus and falafel, malai kofta, "ravioli", a Japanese hand roll and a salad. The sunflower-seed pate in the hand roll played the role of a tuna tartare filling, and the raw hummus was actually very good, if a bit grainy.

Naturally, the highlight for me was dessert: a coconut cream pie had a sweet nut crust, and it was festively drizzled with carob syrup in an approximation of chocolate sauce. No, carob is not chocolate, but at least it looks like it.

(I am ashamed to admit that I ended the evening with a trip to Il Gelatone.)

Eat Raw: 426 15th St., Brooklyn, (718) 210-0048. Live Live, 261 E. 10th St., (212) 505-5504. Quintessence: 263 E. 10th St., (646) 654-1804.
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Saturday, July 19, 2003

Chocolate Tastings At The Museum Of Natural History

Here's an educational way to sweeten up your weekends throughout the summer.
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Monday, July 07, 2003

Brunch At Paradou (Closed as of 1/31/04)

Yesterday, I awoke with a craving for crepes. As the morning wore on, I also developed an intense craving for chocolate truffles (an almost daily occurrence). Fortunately, I was able to satisfy both desires in one place: the new Paradou in Park Slope.

Our savory whole-wheat crepes (ham, Comte cheese and egg with a hint of Dijon mustard, and smoked salmon with lemon creme fraiche and asparagus) were gigantic and generous with filling. The crepes were folded over to make room for refreshing green salads.

Not once in my life have I been able to resist ordering a dessert crepe when I see one on the menu. It was easy to succumb to the temptation at Paradou, which offers six sweet varieties. Since I was with fellow chocolate lovers, we shared the chocolate creme de menthe (a light, eggy crepe filled with melted dark chocolate and doused with mint syrup) and the sugar-sprinkled Nutella banana.

At this point I was quite full, but I mustered up all of my remaining appetite for the Joel Durand truffles, for which Paradou is the exclusive U.S. distributor. The complex flavors of these exotic treats rivaled those of Bernard Callebaut and Jacques Torres. I was especially impressed by the herbal green cardamom, the Corsican bitter honey, and the salted butter caramel. On future visits, I plan to try the entire collection!

Paradou: 426 7th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 499-5557. For Manhattanites, the original location is 8 Little West 12th St., (212) 463-8345.

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